Canyonlands National Park

Introduction

Canyonlands National Park, located in southeastern Utah, was established on September 12, 1964. The park was created to preserve the unique and colorful landscape eroded into numerous canyons, mesas, and buttes by the Colorado River, the Green River, and their tributaries. The area has a rich history of human habitation, with evidence of Native American cultures dating back thousands of years. The Ancestral Puebloans, Fremont people, and later the Ute and Navajo tribes all left their mark on the region through rock art and other archaeological sites.

Canyonlands National Park covers an area of approximately 337,598 acres (1,366 square km). The park is divided into four distinct districts: Island in the Sky, The Needles, The Maze, and the rivers themselves. Each district offers unique landscapes and opportunities for exploration, but they are not directly connected by any roads within the park, making travel between them a bit challenging.  Canyonlands National Park attracts a significant number of visitors each year. In 2023, the park recorded approximately 800,000 visitors. The number of visitors can vary depending on the season, with spring and fall being the most popular times due to the milder weather. Wildlife such as mule deer, coyotes, and desert bighorn sheep are commonly seen.

For more information, go to the park’s Wikipedia page.

Hiking

Canyonlands National Park has hundreds of miles of trails.  The hikes can be broken down into four areas, Island in the Sky, The Needles, the Maze and the River.  It gets very hot in the park, especially in summer.  Remember to bring a lot of water, there is not much in the park. The link to the various areas is below.  

Below are our favorites in each area.  

Island in the Sky

This district provides stunning panoramic views from its high mesa, which sits 1,000 feet (305 m) above the surrounding terrain. Popular viewpoints include Grand View Point, Green River Overlook, and Mesa Arch.  Our favorite hikes in the area are:

Mesa Arch hike is an easy 0.6 (1 km) hike to the 27 foot-long (8.3 m) arch frames and a view of the canyon below.  It is a popular sunrise hike.  Elevation gain is 56 feet (17 m).  The trailhead is located along the Grand View Point Road.

The Lathrop to Canyon Rim Trail is a moderate hike that offers stunning views of the Colorado River and the surrounding canyon landscape. The hike is 5 miles (8 km) round-trip, with an elevation gain of 158 feet (48 m). The trail begins by crossing a wide grassland on the mesa top before reaching the canyon rim, where hikers are rewarded with spectacular vistas of Airport Tower and the Colorado River.  To reach the trailhead, travel south from the Island in the Sky Visitor Center along Utah 313 for about 2 miles (3.2 km) until you see the trailhead on the eastern side of the road. One of the key attractions along this trail is the view of Airport Tower, a prominent rock formation that stands out against the canyon landscape. 

The Needles

Known for its colorful spires of Cedar Mesa Sandstone, The Needles district offers a variety of hiking opportunities.

The Chesler Park Loop Trail is a moderate to strenuous hike that showcases the best of the Needles District. The trail is approximately 10.7 miles (17.2 km) round trip, with an elevation gain of 615 feet (187 m). This trail offers a mix of grassy meadows, unique rock formations, narrow passageways, and stunning panoramic views. The trail also includes the Joint Trail, which features deep, narrow fractures in the rock. To reach the trailhead, drive from the Needles Visitor Center along UT-211 for about 3 miles (4.8 km), then turn left onto Federal Route 2444 towards the Needles campground. Continue past the campground on a dirt road suitable for standard cars until you reach the parking lot for Elephant Hill Trailhead.

The Druid Arch trail and the one below are my favorite hikes in the park.  At 10.8 miles (17.4 km), it is considered strenuous, with an elevation gain of 503 feet (153 m).  The main attraction of this trail is Druid Arch, a unique rock formation that resembles the monoliths of Stonehenge. The arch is an impressive sight, standing tall against the backdrop of the canyon.  The trail offers stunning views as it winds through Elephant Canyon, with its towering rock formations and diverse desert landscape.

Confluence Overlook Trail is a 11 mile (17.7 km) round-trip hike that provides an incredible view of the confluence of the Colorado and Green Rivers.  The elevation gain is 309 feet (94 m). The trail ends at a cliff overlooking the junction of the Green and Colorado Rivers, 1,000 feet (304 m) below. This hike offers a unique perspective of the park's landscape and is less crowded than other trails in the area.

The Maze

This remote and rugged district is known for its challenging terrain and requires careful planning and preparation. The Maze is a popular destination for experienced hikers and backpackers seeking solitude and adventure. The district also features several rock art sites, including the famous Harvest Scene.

The Horseshoe Canyon Trail is a moderately challenging hike that takes you through a remote and scenic area of Canyonlands National Park. The round-trip distance for the Horseshoe Canyon Trail is approximately 7 miles (11.2 km), with an elevation gain of 780 feet (237 m). This trail is renowned for its well-preserved rock art panels, including the famous Great Gallery, which features life-sized figures and intricate designs created by ancient Native American cultures.  Most visitors access the trail via a 30-mile (48 kilometers) graded dirt road from UT 24, near Goblin Valley State Park. The drive can take about 2.5 hours from Moab or 1.5 hours from Green River. It's important to check road conditions before heading out, as weather can quickly change the accessibility of the dirt roads.

Camping

There are two campgrounds in Canyonland National Park. 

Island in the Sky is a popular campground with 12 sites that are first come, first served.  There are toilets, picnic tables and fire rings.  There is no water within the campground but you can get water at the visitor center from the spring thru the fall. The campground is 7.7 miles (12.4 km) from the visitor center.

The Needles Campground has 26 campsites.  Some of the sites can be reserved thru Recreation.gov.  There are toilets and water in the spring thru fall.  

Auto Touring aka Jeeping

There are hundreds of miles of unpaved roads within the park.  Most of these roads require a high-clearance, low range four wheel drive.  ATVs, UTVs and OHVs are not permitted within the park.   Motorcycles must be licensed.

Day Use Permits are required on many of the roads.  Permits can be obtained from recreation.gov

All overnight stays require a permit.  See the NPS website for more information. Permits are available thru recreation.gov.

There are three main off-road trails within the park.

White Rim Road, in the Island in the Sky district, is rated as moderate.  It is a 100 mile loop, if no flooding.  The drive typically takes 2-3 days.

Four-wheel-drive Roads at The Needles is rated as moderate to technical.  The road is around 50 miles of backcountry, technical roads.

Four-wheel-drive Roads at the Maze are mostly technical.

Commercial guides also provide 4WD tours within the park.   For a list go the NPS website.

Rafting and Canoes

The Colorado and Green rivers offer miles of both flatwater and whitewater rafting.  Permits are required.  They can be obtained at recreation.gov.  Also, the park has regulations regarding rafting the rivers.  It is important to know them beforehand.

Flatwater trips may float down either the Colorado or Green rivers to the Confluence or Spanish Bottom.  Unless you have a motor, the only way out is via the jet boat shuttle to Moab.   See the parks website on jet boat services.

Whitewater trips within the park involve 14 miles of rapids, with some areas a Class V.  Check the waterflow before leaving.

Commercial Guides also offer trips within the park.  For a list go the NPS website.