Capitol Reef National Park

Introduction

Capitol Reef National Park, located in south-central Utah, has a rich history that dates back thousands of years. The area was originally inhabited by the Fremont Culture around 500 CE, who were known for their petroglyphs and pictographs, many of which can still be seen in the park today. In the 1800s, Latter-Day Saint (Mormon) pioneers settled in the area, establishing the community of Fruita. They planted orchards, some of which are still maintained by the National Park Service. Visitors can explore the remnants of the Fruita settlement, including the Gifford Homestead, which offers a glimpse into the lives of the early settlers. Capitol Reef was designated a national monument by President Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1937 and later became a national park on December 18, 1971.

The park was named for its whitish Navajo Sandstone cliffs with dome formations that resemble the United States Capitol building. The term "reef" refers to any rocky barrier to travel, like ocean reefs. The park covers an area of approximately 241,904 acres (978.95 square km). The park stretches about 60 miles (100 km) from north to south and is about 6 miles (10 kilometers) wide on average. This vast area includes a variety of landscapes, from towering monoliths and deep canyons to colorful rock formations. The park received approximately 1.3 million visitors in 2023. This makes it one of the less visited parks among Utah's "Mighty 5," which includes Zion, Bryce Canyon, Arches, and Canyonlands. Despite its lower visitation numbers, Capitol Reef offers a unique and less crowded experience compared to its more popular counterparts.

The park's diverse habitats support a wide range of wildlife. Capitol Reef is home to 58 species of mammals, including mule deer, coyotes, and mountain lions.

Hiking

Canyonlands National Park has 55 miles (88 km) of trails.  It gets very hot in the park, especially in summer.  Remember to bring a lot of water. A link to the trails and map can be found at the NPS site.

Below are our three favorites.  

Grand Wash and Cassidy Arch trail is a 3.6 mile (5.8 km) roundtrip hike with an elevation gain of 870 feet (246 m).  The trail was named after Butch Cassidy who supposedly had a hideout in the area.  At the end of the trail is Cassidy Arch, which you can walk over.

Hickman Bridge trail is a 1.8 mile (209 km) roundtrip hike, with an elevation gain of 416 feet (127 m).  The bridge is located at the end of the hike.  We recommend doing the upper loop.

Chimney Rock Loop trail is 1.8 miles (2.9 km) roundtrip, with an elevation gain of 590 feet (180 m).  It is a beautiful hike, with great views.  Great sunset hike.

Backpacking

Permits are required for overnight trips.  They can be obtained at the visitor's center.  Many of the overnight hikes can be done as a long day hike. Water is scarce.  Make sure you bring enough for your trip.

Slot Canyons is our favorite overnight trip.  The slots are narrow and can be difficult at times.  Also, the slots are streams that can flood during the flash flood season.  Be aware of the weather forecast before you go.

Upper Muley Twist Canyon is a 14.8 mile (23.8 km) hike, with a bit more than 820 feet (250 m) of elevation gain. It is an awesome hike that winds thru slickrock and large arches.  The view is spectacular.  The path is marked by rock cairns and signs.  The trailhead is located one mile (1.6 km) west of the top of the Burr Trail Road switchbacks.

Camping

There is one regular, one group and two primitive campgrounds in Capitol Reef National Park.

Fruita Campground is the only developed campground in the park.  The campground is surrounded by the historic orchards and is along the Fremont River.  The 71 sites ( 7 tent only) are reservable from the beginning of March thru October.  Reservations can be made at recreation.gov. There are toilets, water and a dump station but no cell reception.

There are two primitive campgrounds within the park, Cathedral Valley and Cedar Mesa campgrounds.  A high clearance four-wheel drive is highly recommended.

Alternatives campsite locations are available at the park's website.

Auto Touring aka Jeeping

There are miles of unpaved roads within the park.  The roads require a high-clearance, low range four wheel drive.  ATVs, UTVs and OHVs are not permitted within the park.   Motorcycles must be licensed.

Cathedral Valley is an incredible drive.  The sandstone cliffs resemble cathedrals.   The loop is 58 miles (93 km).  The loop starts at Hartnet Road, where you cross the Fremon River.

Burr Trail is 66 miles (106 km).  The trail connects Boulder, Utah with the Notom-Bullfrog Road.  The road has views of the Henry Mountains, Waterpocket Fold and the red Circle Cliffs.

Commercial guides also provide 4WD tours within the park.   For a list go the NPS website.