Kenai Fjords National Park

Introduction

Kenai Fjords is one of Alaska's most visited national parks due to its proximity to the town of Seward and the city of Anchorage.  

The human history of the region began long before its federal designation. For more than 1,000 years, the Sugpiaq people (also known as the Alutiiq) inhabited the outer Kenai coast. As a seafaring culture, they relied on skin-covered kayaks to hunt marine mammals and established seasonal camps along the fjords. Archaeological evidence, including village sites dating back to 950 AD, suggests that these communities were deeply integrated into the maritime ecosystem, though many early sites may now be submerged due to coastal subsidence and rising sea levels.  

In the late 18th and 19th centuries, the area saw increased activity from European explorers and Russian traders.   In 1794, Russian Alexandr Baranov built the first sailing vessel in northwestern America at Resurrection Bay, near present-day Seward.  Following the Alaska Purchase in 1867, the region attracted prospectors during the gold rush era, as well as fox farmers and commercial fishermen who utilized the rugged coastline for industry.

In 1978, President Jimmy Carter used the Antiquities Act to designate the area as Kenai Fjords National Monument. This move was initially met with significant local opposition in Seward, as residents feared it would stifle the local fishing and timber economies.   On December 2nd, 1980 the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) was signed into law, officially upgrading the monument to a National Park.

The park is approximately 669,984 acres, which is about 1,047 square miles or 2,711 square kilometers with 40 outflowing glaciers.  In 2024, the park saw approximately 418,682 recreation visits, a steady increase from the 387,525 visitors recorded in 2023.  Most visitation occurs between late May and early September. Because much of the park is inaccessible by road, the majority of visitors experience the park via boat tours or by visiting the Exit Glacier area, which is the only part of the park accessible by car.    For more information visit the parks Wikipedia page.

Hikes

Backpacking and hiking in Kenai Fjords National Park is an adventure, to say the least.  There are a lot of bears in the park.   Carry bear spray (how to use bear spray) and make noise to let them know you are around.  Make sure to carry a bear resistant food container and a water filter.  Be aware, these are not beginner trips.  

Because the majority of Kenai Fjords National Park consists of the Harding Icefield and steep, trail-less fjords, official hiking is concentrated in the Exit Glacier area. Most backpacking in the park is "off-trail" and requires specialized maritime or mountaineering skills.  The NPS site has a map and list of hikes on their website.

My top four hiking and backpacking experiences are below.

1. Harding Icefield Trail: This is the park's premier strenuous day hike or overnight backpacking trip. It climbs from the valley floor through alder forests and alpine meadows to a viewpoint overlooking the 700-square-mile icefield.  The roundtrip distance is 8.2 miles (13.2 km) round-trip, with an elevation gain of approximately 3,500 feet (1,067 m). The trailhead is located at Exit Glacier.  Backpackers often camp at Marmot Meadows (about 2.5 miles / 4 km up) to break up the climb.

2. Exit Glacier Overlook & Loop: A more accessible option, this trail system provides the closest views of the glacier's face. It is comprised of the Glacier View Loop and the slightly higher Overlook Trail.  The trail is around 2 miles round trip, with an elevation gain of 314 to 429 feet (96 to 131 m).

3. Resurrection River Trail: While the trailhead is located at the edge of the park near Seward, this trail offers a rare "lowland" backpacking experience through spruce forests and along the wild river bottom. It is one of the few places for traditional multi-day backpacking that does not involve ice trekking.  The trail is 16 miles (25.7 km) one-way, with an elevation gain of 1,050 feet (32o m).  he trail can be brushed in and requires river crossing skills.

4. Coastal Fjord Backpacking:  This is an advance level backcountry experience.  Since there are no land trails here, this "hike" involves being dropped off by water taxi on a remote beach. Backpackers spend days hiking the beaches and moraines between glaciers.  Elevation gain is minimal and distance is dependent on the hiker.

Camping / Public Cabins

Camping

There is only one campground within the park.  The Exit Glacier Campground is tent only and has twelve sites.  There are vault toilets, central foood storagwe and a cooking area.  Food cannot be stored within the individual campsites.  This is a pump for drinking water.  

Backcountry Camping is allowed within the park.  You may not camp within 500 feet (152 m) of a public use cabin or with 650 feet (193 m)  of a road or trail at Exit Glacier.  Treat your drinking water.

Public Cabins

There are Summer and Winter Public Use cabins within the park.   Reservations can be made at recreation.gov.  Stays are currently limited to 3 nights per cabin.  A propane heater, table, chairs and a wooden bunks are provided.  Water must be treated.  The pit toilets are not operational.  Guest must provide their own bedding, cook stove, utensils and toilet paper.

Kayaking and Fishing

In Kenai Fjords National Park, kayaking and fishing are primary ways to experience the park’s vast marine wilderness, as most of the park is inaccessible by land.

Kayaking

Kayaking is widely considered the best way to see the park's tidewater glaciers and marine life up close. Because the environment is remote and the water is near freezing (approx. 35-40°F / 2-4°C), most visitors choose guided tours.  The top locations are Aialik Bay, known for the actively calving Aialik Glacier and abundant harbor seals, Northwestern Fjord which is more remote and quiet option that requires a longer boat ride but offers massive peaks and three different tidewater glaciers and Bear Glacier Lagoon: Famous for its "iceberg graveyard," where large icebergs become grounded in a shallow lagoon.

Federal regulations require paddlers to stay at least 0.5 miles (0.8 km) away from tidewater glacier faces due to the danger of ice calving and resulting waves. Essential equipment includes a sea kayak with bulkheads, a dry suit or high-quality rain gear, and a VHF radio, as cell service is non-existent.

Fishing

Fishing in the park ranges from saltwater fjord angling to freshwater stream fishing in the backcountry. The saltwater fjords and Resurrection Bay are hotspots for halibut, lingcod, rockfish, and all five species of Pacific salmon.  Remote streams within the park support Dolly Varden and salmon.

An Alaska State fishing license is required for all residents and non-residents over age 16.  Specific bag limits apply, and anglers must follow ADF&G Southcentral regulations. If fishing from shore, you must keep your catch within reach and be prepared to cut your line if a bear approaches to avoid food conditioning.